2023 TractorByNet.com | TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. How's this procedure Zane? I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. If the quadrant bracket is all the way back and the lift still doesnt come all the way up, youll have to replace the worn cam follower pin. I did a lot of work on the first one, so I'm familiar with how they work, but I've never encountered this problem. Or do I need to move it to "position Control" to transport my plow? The worst spot for that is the drain plug where the pump is. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. A lift that raises slow and won't stay up when the engine stops may have blown gaskets, a cracked cylinder, rusty transfer pipe, or other internal leaks. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Do not unscrew the plugs to try and get water to flow faster. The NAA piston and seal will cost more to replace than just buying new cast iron rings. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. "logo": { All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. "height": 57 Little heat and came off pretty easily. I have seen some lifts that were so abused and bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly. There has got to be a better way. A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. plow should lift at the top of the quad in draft contorl.. if it won't.. it needs adjustment. My pic is attached. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. "@type": "InteractionCounter", "userInteractionCount": 5 . The 3-point lift will pick up a lot more weight close to the tractor, than it will out on the end of a boom pole. This is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight. Here is the pic. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. Many of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid only needs to be changed once or twice a year. If the cam follower pin is worn replace it. After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. Even when a tractor is not being used, there is still some deterioration of the fluid. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor, making sure that the end of the control arm enters the opening in the valve control lever and that the control arm is not bent or damaged in any way during this operation. When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. When changing the fluid, try to flush as much of the sludge as possible out with the old fluid. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Condition: This is an excellent time to rebuild the lift cylinder also. NO, I do not want help improving my ranking on search engines. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. The bore should be very smooth with little or no scoring or scratches running lengthwise. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Welding is my call? BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Dean Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . Wrong? Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! "width": 200, Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. (Long) in the Tractors forum followed by comments. Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Internal Adjustments. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. My lift is very jerky and erratic when raising.. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's "fix" for a worn cam follower pin. I've seen a 1200-pound round bale on a 3-point bale spike on the back of an 8N, but he also had a loader bucket on the front to help balance the weight. To completely drain the hydraulic system, there are three drain plugs at each of the low points in the sump. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. (Long)", Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. 2 - Did it freeze last night? Turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. The rest of that space is air and metal. I dropped the belly pump and removed the hydraulic top cover. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. Happy New Year! It appears you have just learned this to be true! TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. Drain off some fluid to expose the top of the pump. You can determine if the leakage is coming from the lift cylinder by removing the right side cover (the one with the dipstick) and starting the tractor. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. "@type": "WebPage", Pic attached. You can remove the piston fron the cylinder by applying a little compressed air to the oil inlet hole in the cylinder. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. The cam follower pin looks perfectly cylindrical. Good to know this is how it's supposed to work. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. It appears you have just learned this to be true! But as the cams wear they begin to knock louder as they actuate the pistons from side to side in the pump. If this is a 9N or 2N we have to first disconnect the touch control linkage or risk breaking the valve assembly. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. Free shipping for many products! And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Little heat and came off pretty easily. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. If your tractor works a normal 40-hour work week, the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. It usually takes 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 gallons not 5 as stated in the owner's manual. Additives that protect against wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear out. Removing and replacing the pump and top cover are relatively simple procedures that are covered pretty well in the I&T FO-4 manual. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? Some people recommend flushing the system with kerosene or diesel fuel. ", (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. John Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? I'm new to this forum stuff. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. Water in the hydraulic fluid is very bad. My lift drifts down when the pto stops.. This is listed as a 5/16 x 7/8 dowel pin but it is actually .309 diameter not 5/16 (.3125). There are four bolts around the PTO bearing flange. Make sure the oil level isnt low. "width": 200, "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. "@type": "ImageObject", To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. ", With about 800 pounds on the lift arms, the front tires start to come off the ground. It may not display this or other websites correctly. If the cylinder bore is in good shape or has only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal. Still, that is just native grass and weeds. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. A really hard freeze could actually crack something. Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. Should the cam be smooth across its width? "@type": "Organization", It should be straight. Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. (b) Operation of Valve. They simply wear out and need to be replaced. "publisher": { On the other hand, modern fluids are much better than what was available when the Operator's manuals were written. Here is the pic. While I was working on the hydraulic system, I decided I would make a seperate short video detailing the hydraulic lift cover linkage adjustment Drain the sump. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above. I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited. I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. Any moisture we can drain off this way will not be in there to mix with the fluid when it warms up. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. Leaks could indicate something as mild as a blown gasket but could also be more expensive parts like a cracked lift cylinder or casting. Should the cam be smooth across its width? I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. Includes left and right anchors.OEM #: 957E596, 957E597.Applic.. $14.36 $15.69 Spring, Hydraulic Control - 9N547B How's this procedure Zane? Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. Enough to cause the lift issues? How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. The N tractors originally had a piston with 3 cast iron rings to seal it. Dean Here is the pic. Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). " I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. }, So, how's the weather? I'll let you know how I do. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. And find it would be a waste of time to rebuild and ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment 8N available! Condition: this ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment a 9N or 2N we have to first disconnect the touch control lever and moves... 2N we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit control '' transport. 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